Saturday, September 24, 2005

Trip journal - day 8

8 September 2005

We (Cindy, Caroline, and I) awoke early, and took a walk along the beach with Gabe. I snapped a photo of a rainbow (now the “wallpaper” for my laptop). We breakfasted on donuts, eggs, bacon, Samoan pancakes (balls of fried bread), cold cereal, and juice. Later, we swam in the warm South Pacific water at the beach directly in front of the houses where we stayed, and used goggles to look at the coral and the fish. Amazing how close to shore the water was teeming with life. There was a bright blue starfish, and several sea cucumbers, including very long ones wrapped around large rocks. Cindy, Caroline, Molly, and I actually touched the starfish.

Later, we caravanned (in Sini’s rented van and our host’s Lincoln Navigator) to Tula, where Sini’s grandfather first met my grandfather and established the first branch in the village. My grandfather and his companion were the first "paolenge's" (sp?) ("pah-oh-leng-ees" -- the Samoan word for "haole" ("how-ley") meaning "white fish" -- white men) to ride in the chief's boat.

The church is no longer standing (it’s now a public school ground), and Sini and the chief’s grandfather’s grave has been moved from the chapel grounds across the street. His grave is near others, but is also near the dumpster for a store so, ironically, is also a kind of junkyard.

We stopped on the way back at the beach and saw a huge Samoan man bathing in the water. Eventually, he undid the bob of hair, and had long flowing black hair down his back. We also waded and gathered shells and sea glass.

After returning to the chief’s, we loaded up and caravanned into Pago Pago to the airport. I was again impressed by the number of homes and shops that had yellow signs in tribute to a Samoan soldier deployed to Iraq.

One of the highlights of being with the chief was his 10 year-old disabled daughter, Olivia (they told us it was Samoan for “olive”). She hovered around us, peeked in windows, and expressed her. She had a heart of gold. She memorized each of our names. However, for some reason she had something against Mindy, so when she recited each of our names, and she got to Mindy, she shook her palm at Mindy, and said, “Nothing!” She also threw away Mindy’s weaving (which, the group reported, was the best), and made Mindy sit in the corner facing away from the group.

By the time we left, Mindy had given her a piece of candy and they were fast friends.

We ate at the airport restaurant (I had a toasted cheese sandwich and a baked potato – comfort food: I’d been a bit queasy since the umu). I had a good talk with Bob.

At security, for some reason I set off the metal detector. I gave my boarding pass to the security man. He said, “Hello, Brother Madsen. I’m Brother So-and-So. We saw you on television during the dedication Sunday.” Nice to be among friends.

Flew the redeye to Honolulu. (Flight left at 11:45 pm, arrived in Honolulu at around 6:30 am).

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